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Introduction
In 1837, Robert Hoddle had bullocks on his mind. As Melbourne’s original surveyor, Hoddle had the daunting task of designing a city with streets wide enough to accommodate bullock teams hauling big loads of goods. As a result, Hoddle’s final ‘grid’ design included broad and imposing main streets that allowed for the delivery of large cartloads of goods.
This was great news for the bullocks, but many people started to create their own human-sized networks between the expanses of the city’s main streets. While big business represented Melbourne’s public face on the main streets, these smaller streets and laneways offered more eclectic, diverse and sometimes ‘unseemly’ diversions from the ordinary.
Today, Melbourne’s laneways continue to offer a variety of delights. Some are populated by retail and other businesses, cafés, bars and street art, while others retain their original form, offering rare glimpses into the city’s history.
Many city visitors and locals agree that exploring Melbourne’s
laneways is the best way to discover the true heart of our city.
So grab your map, get your walking shoes on and start exploring!
Shining a red light on the past
Rumour has it that two laneways offered their own take on romance. Ladies of the night worked on Juliet Terrace (now Liverpool Street), while their fellow gentlemen of the evening worked on Romeo Street (now Crossley Street).
Today, these streets are pedalling more wholesome wares. Liverpool Street (I3) now hosts Asian eateries such as Little Malaysia and Laksa Me, the Double Happiness bar that serves fusion cocktails in Chinese socialist propaganda surrounds, and Pellegrini’s, a Melbourne institution serving hearty Italian fare.
On Crossley Street (I3) you’ll find Von Haus, a history-rich bar and eatery offering home-style European flavours. Plus there’s an array of shopping options including Glitzern, Blonde Venus, Gallery Funaki, Madam Virtue & Co and De Mille (vintage clothing), plus the popular lunch/dinner spots, Becco and Gingerboy.
On Bank Place/Mitre Lane (D6) you can visit Melbourne’s oldest running pub, the Mitre Tavern, that opened its doors in 1867. Here you will also find wining and dining institution Syracuse, plus other dining options.
Off Bourke Street
You could well spend a decent amount of time in just one laneway, Meyers Place (I4), and still claim to have a well-rounded knowledge of Melbourne’s nightlife.
Visit the Meyers Place Bar and sip your preferred beverage in a sophisticated architecturally designed environment that welcomes all comers. There’s also Loop, with superb audio-visual facilities, regular screenings of digital, film and other visual art – plus great music. While you’re there, you may also want to visit the Italian Waiters’ Club for a no-nonsense pasta and drop into 1920s-style speakeasy Lily Blacks for a delicious night cap.
The art of the city
Melbourne’s street art offers a feast of colour, ideas and energy. These changing galleries enliven the ordinary and change the way we view our city. Annual art commissions transform Melbourne’s laneways into intriguing, captivating and sometimes challenging spaces for artistic exploration and expression. Common street art forms in Melbourne include large and small commissioned spray painted works, stencilling and papering.
Some of the best examples around town can be found in Hosier Lane (H6), which needs to be seen to be believed; Union Lane (F5), featuring commissioned street art; Cocker Alley (G6), where you can see work by internationally acclaimed street artist Banksy; and Caledonian Lane (F4), home to cool t-shirt store Rancho Notorious. Rutledge Lane (H6) and Spark Lane (J5) are also worth a look.
Music and more
Melbourne’s jazz scene thrives with dedicated jazz venues in the central city. Bennetts Lane (G2) has hosted some of the world’s biggest jazz acts and plenty of local talent as well. There’s also Paris Cat at Goldie Place (D4). If you wanna rock, drop by ACDC Lane (H6) for a photo op and stumble upon the Cherry Bar, a venue that exudes authentic rock ‘n’ roll in its attitude and aesthetics. Dame Edna Place (F5) is another laneway worth a visit and a photo opportunity if you’re a fan of that grand Dame from Moonee Ponds.
The important stuff
Shopping followed by sustenance, it’s an important rite of city passage. Start yours in one of these special city spots. Manchester Lane (F6) is home to the Design A Space Retail Gallery showcasing 70 independent Australian designers, plus PRVDR Trainers and Claude Maus. Equitable Place (E6) really does have something for everyone in the food stakes, with stand-outs Rich Maha (Indian) and Sotto e Sopra. You’ll also find menswear retailer Betty and Ford with their limited edition silk neckties, Melbourne-designed and made fragrances and unique cufflinks.
On The Causeway (F5), taste the delights from Laurent, a French-style patisserie; Sushi Monger, where the lunch time queue curls out the door and onto the street; and hole-in-the-wall Guavabean mini. Howey Place (F5) is a dedicated fashion laneway, featuring labels such as Alannah Hill, Oroton, Bisconte, Melko and FCUK, while Scott Alley (G6) caters to hip young things with Lady Petrova and Miss Lau, plus MI Gallery (where you can purchase photos of Melbourne laneways) and White Moss Flowers.
Jane Bell Lane (F3) is synonymous with ‘street’ and ‘art’. Deck yourself out in urban culture from Trimäpee’s eclectic and artistic range or Villain’s street art-inspired streetwear, books and toys. No Vacancy gallery has a predilection for exhibiting the work of Melbourne-based street artists.
Mystery tour
If you have a thirst for experimentation, wander down Croft Alley (H4) in the evening. Keep going, you’ll find it.
Some might find this drinking hole on Sniders Lane (E3) a little dark and dingy, while others will relish late evenings with like-minded souls. Need a break from the retail therapy? Then wander past boutiques aplenty and find yourself in Presgrave Place (F5). Sanctuary is here. Civilised types will be happy in Goldie Place (D4). Knock once and tell them we sent you.
Understatement is the name of the game in Warburton Lane (E5) and you can hardly hear the name of this place. But name your liquid desire and it shall be yours.
Before you start
This brochure forms a great starting point for any exploration of Melbourne’s laneways. Let your imagination guide you to other parts of the city as well, where you may discover your own hidden treasures. Here are just a few laneways to get you started. Please note that the map overleaf includes only the laneways mentioned in this brochure.
Popular and populated
Immerse yourself in a café-style crowd and go with the espresso-scented flow as you wander through these two connected classic lanes. Peer down side alleys as you discover an immense street ‘gallery’. Look up to see how city dwellers live – right in the action.
Degraves Street (F7) offers alfresco dining and coffee, along with cool retailers including: Little Cupcakes, Organic Food and Wine Providore, Il Papiro (Italian paper goods) and Smitten Kitten (designer lingerie). Centre Place (F6) is crowded with people, food and flair, including: Hell’s Kitchen (bar) Louvre (bar), Jungle Juice, Kinky Gerlinki (shabby chic) and Body (clothing inspired by movement and dance).
Not too far away you’ll find Hardware Lane/Street (D4). Drop by for an alfresco meal during summer and watch out for Mahoneys Gallery, where you can rent Australian art for your office or home. While you’re there check out the Golden Monkey, a bar and dining establishment reminiscent of a 1920s Shanghai opium den.
Chinatown
The Victorian gold rush of the 1850s drew huge numbers of immigrants to Melbourne, including many Chinese people seeking their fortunes. Some set up shops along Little Bourke Street which grew to become the Chinatown of today. This area remains one of the most intriguing and enchanting parts of the city.
Venture down Tattersalls Lane (F4) to discover Section 8, a bar in a shipping container; Shanghai Dumpling House, one of the busiest, no-nonsense Chinese eating houses in town; and Gaylord, a flavoursome Indian restaurant with décor that needs to be seen to be believed. Nearby Celestial Lane (F4) is considered the birthplace of Melbourne’s Chinatown and home to the very popular Cantonese-style eatery, Supper Inn. Many a hungry local has done ‘stair time’ queuing for a vacant table here.
Market Lane (H3) is another lane full of exotic and unusual flavours, including the much awarded Flower Drum, the rock and roll-themed music venue Ding Dong, HuTong Dumpling Bar, Hofbräuhaus German restaurant and the Korean Palace.